Retail Diary - Week of February 5th, 2024
This Week's Topics:
Resale News
Shining Bright: Lab Grown vs Mined đź’Ž
New Collabs, Launches, Corporate Moves, Stores & News
What else I ❤️️
Resale News
The RealReal
The RealReal has made a few changes to their site as they continue to push towards profitability and growth. I had noticed the ads at the top of the site for Safeway, Facetune AI and other seemingly random sites and links. This week I noticed a new feature that feels more inline with the shopping experience.
Powered by xCover you can now pay extra (TRR with the upsell feature) to make Final Sale items returnable. For example, on this $5,000 Chanel Mini 22 Hobo you can pay $580 to have the option to return. You will still have to return within 7 days of receipt and pay $14.95 to cover return shipping. It is an interesting insurance business model.
This appears to only be on high in-demand items that usually aren’t available for return vs items that are heavily discounted before they are removed from the site for not selling and final sale for that reason. See example below.
If you are looking for tips to shop on The RealReal check out Liz McKay recent post here filled to the brim with tips, tricks and fabulous finds.
Poshmark
Interesting to hear CEO Manish Chandra discuss the current Poshmark focus and business trends.
Opportunity for live Shopping Events, which are much bigger overseas and in China specifically. Poshmark is helping to grow this in the US and Canada by hosting webinars and rookie events to help train and also traveling to key demographics (ex. college students) to engage with them on this platform.
Trends are moving faster than ever, and Poshmark has been able to lean into events like Barbie (dressing in pink) or concerts like Taylor Swift’s and Beyoncé’s.
It is also interesting how the stricter return policies, with smaller return windows and shipping costs, have driven more NWT (new with tags) and products labeled “missed return” to drive sales of new clothing and the justification/reason for why the seller is looking to offload.
Chanel v What Goes Around Comes Around trial ends with the jury favoring on the side of Chanel. Read more about the trial and decision here in WWD.
Latest brands adding Resale to their site
Rhode launches resale - would be a great spot to find a dress for an event or a wedding.
Shining Bright: Lab Grown vs Mined Diamonds đź’Ž
There are layers to this conversation. We’ve got economic factors, ethical concerns and perception - from years of marketing.
Mined diamonds have long been associated with luxury, symbolizing special occasions and treating loved ones. The marketing around mined diamonds had been clear, promoting messages like "diamonds are a girl's best friend," spoiling the ones you love, or show how independent you are and buy one for yourself . On the other hand, lab-grown diamonds are emerging as a compelling alternative. They offer the same luxurious look and style (I mean, have you seen Dorsey??! Gorgeous, modern and rich looking!)
This latest article by Amanda Mull for The Atlantic - with many of the factors outlined above, discusses how lab grown diamonds are complicating the considerations. Many are choosing not to go with the largest, clearest lab grown diamond if they wouldn’t be able to afford the same thing in a mined diamond. Brides don’t want to explain to friends & family that what is on their finger is not a mined diamond. Luxury is supposed to be hard to attain - that is not the case at all (for most) with a lab grown diamond.
In many ways, it feels that the lab grown diamond industry moved faster than what the mined diamond industry was prepared for to truly differentiate the two products. Add in the global pause to the jewelry - specifically wedding/engagement - industry during the height of COVID in 2020 and the surge in demand post vaccinations, driving major price fluctuations. Consider this financial data point from Mull’s article “According to Golan’s data, at the end of 2018, the average wholesale price for a one-carat round lab diamond was $1,786. At the end of 2023, it was $163.” Wow!
This Fast Company article also dives into the lab grown diamond business sharing that Dorsey will be moving into the bridal business this year as the company continues to grow. In 2023 they were 100% above the year before in revenue and the year before that they had grown 600%. The Fast Company article also shares how lab grown diamonds are changing the reason why people are buying diamonds. It is no longer a financial investment or to show-off wealth.
To wrap this conversation up, here is an article from Axios in December 2023 with much more data, insights and charts to showcase the changes in the industry.
New Collabs, Launches, Corporate Moves, Stores & News
Collabed
Launched
In this great WhoWhatWear podcast, Paige Adams-Geller (Paige Denim) announced she will be launching swimwear.
Vision Pro launched by Apple and at least 3 fashion & beauty brands have apps for shopping through the headset. Mytheresa allows shoppers to visit virtual locations and style based on where they “are” and J.Crew visitors can see a virtual closet, get styling help, or shop with friends.
Welcome Rebecca Minkoff to Substack and I love that you can use the cost of the subscription to shop her brand.
Stylist Liat Baruch (Sofia Richie Grainge’s stylist) launched a Substack.
Corporate Moves
Spanx announces new CEO Caroline Whitton and Executive Chair Jeanne Jackson.
Bloomingdale’s names a new RTW Fashion Director - Janelle Lloyd.
Stores & News
This was really interesting about experiential shopping - all about The Grove in LA and how they are curating retailers for the mall, but are maximizing testing new shops (often with digitally native brands) and experiences with a small 300 square foot shipping container. I also learned that The Grove has more foot traffic than Disneyland.
Saks Beverly Hills has moved a few steps down the road into the old Barney’s location. It has taken 5 years for them to complete this renovation.
Another luxury store opening, Chanel opens the first watch and jewelry flagship on 5th Avenue in NYC.
Thankful for this article from Rachel Tashjian in the Washington Post visiting Salter House in Brooklyn and explaining the store concept. I kept seeing the Salter House nightgown dresses and housewares linked and referenced, and imagined a Hill House Home meets Gohar World and it seems like it is in that space. Feels like Salter House has hit the moment of overlapping wanting to slow down with artisanal and unique products. A mix of accessible and luxury price points.
What else I ❤️️
I really loved reading this Washington Post article about the new wave of fashion journalist, Editors-in-Chief that I so admire. Ashley Fetters Maloy interviewed Lindsay Peoples, Nikki Ogunnaike, Sally Holmes, Willa Bennett and Sarah Ball on their experiences and what they see as the opportunities in fashion magazines and publishing going forward.
A new sling bag from Mansur Gavriel. I love my Uniqlo but this MG looks like a beautiful alternative to a more expensive banana bag everyone loves.
Love reading this story behind Tracy Chapman’s Prada look to perform at the Grammy’s 36 years after she originally played Fast Car at the Grammy’s.
Fashion Trust US announced their finalist for 2024 with awards to be given on April 9th. They are awarding $500,000 in funding to up and coming designers.
The history of the lĂŞkĂŞ shoe, playing soccer on the Ivory Coast.
Seems like the trending spring shoe will be the boat shoe.
Fashion critic and content creator Hanan Besovic (@ideservecourture on instagram) was interviewed by Forbes. They discuss couture, men vs women designers and reference many of the new streaming shows covering fashion that is out now or about to go live.
Thanks for reading Sarah's Retail Diary 🛍️ Feel free to share and help our retail community grow 🛍️
What's Next?
NYFW officially begins tomorrow and it is going to be a whirlwind for the next few weeks. I’ve got you covered. I’ll have some updates for you in the Sunday Scoop along with some of my favorite newsletters I’ve been scrolling so you can too.
Also, I’m working on my Retail Math 101 newsletter - if you have any questions or want me to focus on anything in particular, add to the comments here or email me sarahshapiro@substack.com. I love hearing from y’all - thank you for all the comments and notes! Part one will be ready by the end of the month.
Thanks for reading Deep Dive Edition 151
Sarah Shapiro