Retail Diary - Week of January 30th

This Week's Topics:  

• Skim-ming new CCO and new campaign

• Kate Spade 30th Celebration

• New Launches, Collabs, Investments & New Appointments

• Trend Grab Bag 

• What else I ❤️️ 

Skim-ming new CCO and new campaign

• Skims has proven yet again that they can be of the moment with their campaigns. Their valentine's day campaign is starring the two most recent "galentines" or best girl friends. Two of the stars from the White Lotus. I loved this campaign (written about here by Business of Fashion. And Fashionista wrote about it here.)

• And a new CCO was named. Robert Norton is coming most recently from Moncler. The fact that they specifically call out that he has a focus on brand and business shows us where the focus of Skims is - both in building the stable foundation but also continuing to stay true to what the brand is and who they cater to. A commercial lead is key to building a strategy to maximize the profit and sales.

• This week, Thingtesting dug into the Shapewear category and shared insights into the category that is expected to reach close to $7 billion by 2030.

30 candles in honor of the Kate Spade iconic "Sam" bag

Kate Spade 30th Celebration

• 30 years to an iconic bag! I wonder how I will feel bringing my "vintage" bag out of my closet and wearing it. Might be fun to be a bit nostalgic.

• I loved reading about the current business of Kate Spade with their CEO Liz Fraser. The creation of "Kate Spade Green" with Pantone (I can remember the iconic KS print)

• They also recently launched Pre-Loved with ThredUp.

New Launches, Collabs, Investments & New Appointments

• Launched

  • Journelle is expanding into experiential Wellness with beauty, cosmetics services and party space.

  • Athleta expands into yoga accessories.

  • Lele Sadoughi lauches wallpaper

  • Louis Vuitton's newest baby - LV launches their first baby collection.

  • Cult Gaia opens their first flagship store in Los Angeles. New York to open later this month.

  • Loeffler Randall walks down the aisle. After having a hit pair of shoes that have been on brides, bridesmaids and many guests feet - the designer has launched a full capsule collection of RTW, footwear and accessories for the special day.

  • Net-A-Porter launched a repair service. I'm very into this - I often want to repair the pieces I love and feel like I would trust a retailer who knows high-end pieces to take care of the items once purchased. A great way to add loyalty and trust and provide sustainable options for your customers. I see this as another iteration of circular fashion.

  • I've talked about all the retailers getting into beauty (most recently Moda Operandi and Shopbop) and now media publisher Highsnobiety is launching a beauty vertical. 2023 is going to be a big year for beauty growth.

• Collabed

  • What EVERYONE is talking about - Nike put a (Tiffany's) ring on it. You can sign up for updates here. I think the sterling shoe horn is the coolest piece from the collab.

  • Another collab I love just launched - the Zara x Clarks collection looks great and the images are very fresh.

  • Costume Designer June Ambrose collab with Puma.

  • Target collabed with Vogue editor Gabriella Karefa-Johnson on a very colorful and fun collection.

• Invested

  • Marquee Brands invested in speciality maternity brand Hatch and three years ago bought three moderate maternity brands from bankruptcy and has now created an umbrella collective lead by Hatch founder Ariane Goldman.

• Hired

  • The RealReal hired John Koryl as CEO.

  • Gucci names Sabato De Sarno as the new Creative Director. You can read more about his background here (time at Prada, Dolce & Gabanna and most recently at Valentino.)

  • Tom Kingsbury, interim CEO at Kohl's, has formally been named new CEO at Kohl's.

  • Love celebrating my friends and their new adventures. Mara McCune nailed it as the new CMO at Clockwork. 

  • How Gucci and Louis Vuitton are looking at new creative talent for the brands.

  • Nike exec Mike Brewer joins Crate & Barrel as COO.

Trend Grab Bag

The stories everyone is talking about - what to have on your radar.

• Retail Stories

  • Influencer trips - if you are following all the Dubai influencer trips here are the articles I've been diving in to. My $0.02 are that anyone who thinks this feels extravagant likely hasn't done the financial breakdown of how this translates to sales - because it brings in a lot of revenue and these Beauty brands do significant revenue. 

    • The WSJ article on the economics of this marketing.

    • The Cut breakdown

    • Perfectly timed PR, Founder Maureen Kelly on How I Built This.

  • I'm really into the possibilities for ChatGPT. 

  • Amid economic uncertainty I'm paying attention to how brands are cutting costs. Two relevant articles from Business of Fashion here and here.

  • I love this trend of de-influencing. I'm sure it can get journalist and influencers into trouble (if you say you don't like an item would that brand ever want to work with you again?) But it helps build loyalty and trust and I want to know when someone would not recommend an item.

• Fashion Trends 

  • Going out tops circa early 2000's return. 

  • Let's explore comfortable, functional "work" pants - High end from High Sport and Appropriately Priced and my personal new favorites are 20% off today. I describe these as work sweat pants.

  • Whether you go major oversized, pick up a Men's blazer or a slightly boxier shape, Oversized Blazers are a look. This week Hilary Kerr from Second Life/Who What Wear released an interview with Frankie Shop Founder Gaelle Drevet. Frankie Shop was an early driver of this trend.

  • Skirt Shapes - what length and silhouette are we in to? I think the extra long silk trumpet shape feels fresh.

  • And in a segway to this long silhouette, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy's 90's style is major inspo this season.

  • Lived in, well worn bags are having a moment at resellers. The RealReal has been testing selling more worn in bags than they had previously accepted (and still being transparent in their worn condition.)

What else I ❤️️ 

• Le Castiglione was such a staple in the fashion industry. I was lucky to frequent this cafe on all my work trips to Paris (and often 2-3 times in a single trip.) It was easy to pop-in from the shows, the food was good and the people watching and the buzz next level. The NYTimes wrote a great send off as they are closing after 30 years.

• Chanel Haute Couture Show in 60 seconds. Swoon.

• The Dorsey founder has influenced so many fashion pieces I love right now. Harper's Bazaar has her 13 Things and Megan Strachan has launched a substack with all her pieces she is wearing. She's a good follow.

• Well this is exciting. Levi Revenue Beats Expectations as Denim Demand Holds Up

• New to me podcast and I chose to start with an interview with fine jewelry designer/brand Brent Neale.

• One of Lauren Sherman's last articles for Business of Fashion is a deep dive into Everlane's turnaround. After being touted as the next J.Crew or Gap with their relaxed American styling and transparent (and accessible) pricing they are now restructuring their debt and changing their course but still sticking with their roots.

• Schoolhouse Rock turns 50 and I want to watch this special. 

• The Cut really has been amazing lately - The New Rules are fantastic. We are all sharing and loving the ettiquette for how to behave. I do disagree with the "no gift" comment. If it says no gift, please don't bring a gift. That means the would be intended recipient doesn't want/need unwanted stuff and doesn't want to write a thank you note. 

• I really enjoyed this Vogue podcast interview with celebrity stylist Kate Young on her career path, the inner workings of the styling industry and all her tips.

What's Next?

I have a stack of magazines to catch up on. And NY Fall 2023 fashion week kicks off next week with the other cities just behind it (then the Oscars and before we know it we will be at the Met Gala.) Oh my!

Thanks for reading Edition 127.
Sarah Shapiro