Retail Diary - Week of February 27th

This Week's Topics:  

• J.Crew investigative journalism

• Fashion Week must see

• Innovation in Fashion & Retail

• New Launches, Collabs, Investments & New Appointments

• What else I ❤️️ 

J.Crew Investigative Journalism

• I've posted about Who What Wear's Hillary Kerr's podcasts and how much I enjoy them. Her interview this week with Maggie Bullock is no exception.

• After listening to the above linked interview I immediately pre-ordered Bullock's new (and first) book on the rise and almost fall of J.Crew. The Kingdom of Prep: Inside the Rise and (Near) Fall of J.Crew.

• The interview grabbed my attention with the discussion about Jenna Lyon's and Mickey Drexler's working style - how both of them are creative and business minded and finding that blend was the magic formula at J.Crew. I also appreciated the conversation around how J.Crew defined style in 2009-2010 and was challenged when they couldn't define the next look after that. Embracing of prep style but then turning away from it. 

• Here is the article Maggie Bullock wrote in 2019 for Vanity Fair that kicked off her writing the book.

WWD Coverage of the Dior Show. Le Catch's blog post image from the Prada show. 

Fashion Week Must See

• All the latest pieces from fashion weeks that I'm paying attention to:

  • This Dior show but specifically this dress sparkling on the runway.

  • Vanessa Friedman's write up on French Fashion this week in the NYTimes and what she's seen on the runway.

  • Everyone loved Prada (more here.) And I can totally see why. I see this as being the look that will be easily replicated on the street. It is approachable, accessible and you can add your own details. Get the look now with this J. Crew sweater and this Chloe skirt and the oversized Everlane blazer.

  • Milan street style.

  • The WSJ had a wonderful article about luxury fashion and the ways that four high-end brands and proving to be recession proof. They are really delivering classics, value and something special for a customer.

  • I think it is so interesting that Chanel launched a price increase during fashion week and 5 days before their show. Currently Fashion Editors, Buyers, Shoppers, Celebs etc are all in Paris and likely shopping for their new special handbag. The data details on the breakdown of price increases here. @bragmybagofficial has a Chanel inflation image (see below.) It is an interesting strategy. They are increasing their prices incredibly frequently. The goal is to move closer towards Hermés prices, but rather than taking a larger jump they are doing it in smaller steps. There is also such demand for Chanel bags (and the conversion rates across the global economy also is taken into consideration) so I'd be curious how they are tracking if there is any price resistance. 

@bragmybagofficial with their Chanel inflation visual - a strong investment strategy!

Innovation in Fashion & Retail

• First bit of innovation is similar to J.Crew above and a near fall (they refinanced their debt and made smart moves to work their way through bankruptcy) seeing Claire's currently innovating and being an important tween brand after being around for so many years can really be seen as a success. So many brands want to "grow" with their consumer but also acquire the new younger generations and it is hard to appeal to both. I really enjoyed listening to this podcast of Retail Gets Real with the CMO of Claire's, Kristin Patrick.

• Fast Company published their list of most innovative companies. The retail list included both Claire's and the "Claire's for the new generation" Studs. See the full list of all companies from Fast Company here. Sectors to check out: Beauty, Consumer Goods, Fashion & Apparel, Wellness.

• Nostalgic Innovation, Why 1997 was Fashion's big year.

• Where I think there is still room for innovation, finding the hook and strongest business model for repurposing clothing, accessories, etc. This Fast Company article talks about the resale boom, but we've seen that The RealReal has been challenged in finding their path to profitability. What is the innovation that will be intriguing enough for consumers to recycle, resell etc their goods and for businesses to both be profitable and help resolve the problem (if that is what they are looking to do) with excess merchandise and goods that people already own.

New Launches, Collabs, Investments & New Appointments

• Launched

  • Jen Atkin, a Kardashian hairstylist and the Founder of Hair Care line Ouai, has launched a new Hot Tools line, Mane.

  • Fabletics is launching activewear scrubs. The materials seem ideal for this launch and innovation. You can check them out here.

  • Walmart launches a line with baby brand Monica & Andy. Makes sense as the Andy in Monica & Andy is Andy Dunn who sold his Bonobos line to Walmart.

  • Parade (intimate apparel) will be launching at Target.

  • Bombas is expanding into bralettes.

  • On (the hot workout sneakers) launched a kids line.

• Collabed

  • H&M upcoming collabs with Mugler and potentially Paco Rabanne.

  • Skechers x Diane Von Furstenberg.

  • Moleskine but make it (Missoni) fashion

  • Rihanna has a new Fenty x Puma collab coming.

  • Rich Paul (Lebron James' business partner) collabs with New Balance.

• Invested

  • L Catterton invests in fashion line A.P.C. with a majority stake in the brand.

• Hired

  •  An article that I found super interesting on Retail CEOs. I loved my time in the Bloomingdale's Training Program and experience from a true merchandising program.

  • Former Chanel CEO Maureen Chiquet was named Chairwoman of La DoubleJ.

What else I ❤️️ 

• Newsletters. Newsletters. Newsletters. Sharing a few favorites here:

  • Great issue of Secret Menu from the Of A Kind Co-Founders. 13 Fashion Newsletters and I love so many of these.

  • Loving this issue of Lauren Sherman’s newsletter post life at Business of Fashion. She shares other newsletters she loves.

  • This newsletter has me contemplating upgrading to a subscription and wearing color. Even though I only wear black.

  • This Business of Fashion article talked about the fashion newsletter space. It is interesting how much it has changed. There are so many great newsletters that I could easily spend $50 or more a month subscribing to premium content! (*And a big thank you from me to you for choosing to read this one!)

• Modern Retail launched a new retail roundup Podcast.

• Learned about this app, BLAPP that is the easiest way to find and support black-owned businesses. Very cool and easy to use.

• I found this very interesting - The Joan Mitchell Foundation sent a cease and desist to Louis Vuitton for using her work without permission in an ad. What I found interesting is the Louis Vuitton Foundation museum in Paris just completed a very strong and well regarded exhibit of Monet and Joan Mitchell. So the timing just made me go....hmmmm.

• Tennis bracelets still trending and Dorsey getting great work out of their press team. Dorsey's latest ring launch written about in Le Catch today.

• Put a pin in it.  history of the safety pin.

• Extreme fashion and comfort aren’t going away

• Cate Blanchett’s rework on the red carpet and I thought the SAG Awards was one of the best red carpets I’ve seen in awhile. I’m so excited for the Oscars red carpet.

• I'm never giving up my 917 area code. Except for maybe a 212.

• It’s cold. Style with socks!

• Eli Lilly decreases the price of insulin. This is an important political, medical and retail story this week.

• Interesting read on the young Editor in Chief for Vogue China.

What's Next?

Whew! That was a lot this week. But honestly, I love it all! We've got the Chanel show to look forward to early next week, the SAG Awards set a high bar for the Oscars Red Carpet.

Thanks for reading Edition 129.
Sarah Shapiro